Youssef meets us outside the Pavilion. They are still burning the sugar canes but the air is cleaner on the West bank. We are going to the Valley of the Artisans–a hard but very rewarding day for us, crawling up and down steep stairs and dark passages (take a torch along with you, it will come in handy).
TT 359 Inherkhau (per Weeks) or Inhemkha (per sign outside): very pretty, very colourful, very intimate;
TT ? (not in Weeks, recently opened) tomb of Sennuten: the loveliest of them all, we go back to it at the end of our visit to the astonishment of the guards;
TT 335 Nakht Amun (not in Weeks) tiny but interesting;
TT 218, 219 & 220: tiny, difficult to access but worth it.
Temple of Hathor at Deir-el-Medina (Weeks, pp. 220-21): we had not seen it two years ago but it is in remarkable condition and for once the ptolemaic reliefs are very handsome (much, much better than at Edfu). We tell off the guard who insists on showing us some Coptic scribblings on the walls which they deface more than they adorn. We return to the VoQ and Nefertari’s tomb. The martinet at the entrance is very unpleasant (car-park-attendant syndrome) and throws a tantrum because we are overstaying the 10 mns. posted outside. We tell him the big boss at the Museum, when asked, confirmed we could stay as long as we liked. He pretends to call someone higher up and looks busy but we remain unimpressed–for heaven’s sake! we are alone in the tomb and so take our time. Afterwards we visit QV 52 Titi which is a bit of a disappointment because the colours are so pale as to be indistinguishable from the background. However QV 44 Khaemwaset (a.k.a. Kha-Em-Wast) and QV 55 Amenherkhepshef (a.k.a. Amen Khoshef) who were both Ramses III’s sons are absolutely gorgeous but should be seen before Nefertari’s tomb because they pale in comparison. They are often overlooked but they are worth a special visit. We take another look at Seti I in the VoK because “we are worth it” and do not fear the overload of splendours. After this unforgettable day Youssef takes us to his house to meet his wife and beautiful children and drink a lemon juice. We look at his cow, his buffalo, his geese, and his chickens (we are astonished to hear foxes come from the desert behind the VoK to raid the henhouses of the West bank–don’t get me started, I love foxes). We are going with S., P., K., J. and R. to the Jewel on the Nile. We hear the kittens rescued from the trash can are now in the animal hospital but not in very good shape. Pleasant dinner with friends. We remove ourselves to the WP bar and spend a delightful evening before going to bed after midnight. What a day!